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Donglin Temple: A Little Known Gem in Shanghai


A small buddha figure
A small buddha figure

What is it?


This is just one Buddha of many in this place of worship, a Chinese Buddhist temple in Shanghai. It is dedicated to the Bodhisattva Guanyin, a central figure in Chinese (Chan) Mahayana Buddhism.


Donglin Temple was originally built in the Ming Dynasty in 1308, but the original structure has long been lost to the mists of time. By 1987 only one part of the original building remained and from 2004 to 2007 the whole complex was rebuilt. The three main areas in are now the courtyard, hall and viewing platform.


Courtyard


A picture of Sudhana
Sudhana with the viewing platform and hall in the background

The courtyard features a statue known as the "child of wealth" or Sudhana. There is a pond surrounding the figure full of fish. Surrounding the pond are a series of 8 dragons and carp stone statues. The idea is that throwing a coin into the carp's mouth will bring good luck. Many visitors also feed the fish.


Going past the statue, a 20-metre-high bronze door with the engraving of 999 Buddhas greets you. It is the highest bronze door in the world according to the Guinness World Records; it's pretty big. Inside is the main hall known as the room of "ten-thousand buddhas".

A picture of a buddha
One of ten thousand

The Hall


On all four walls are small buddha figures around the size of a hand each in a separate compartment. Each buddha apparently represents a family that has donated to the temple. Despite the large number of buddhas in the room, only one will probably catch your attention first.


A 27 metre statue of Guanyin
Guanyin




This 27-metre-high statue of Guanyin (depicted in her form known to have a thousand arms) is placed at the back of the room, yet it is by far its most defining feature. Its sheer size means that it is the tallest statue of Guanyin (in this form) in the world. The statue has three main heads and six main arms. Yet behind the six arms are hundreds of smaller ones forming a circle behind the figure. One set of hands holds a buddha above the deity's head. The expression of the heads is focused and compassionate with the eyes almost closed to show meditation. The effect this statue creates is one of awe, yet reassurance. The figure, while powerful and imposing does not look aggressive but helpful. This duality of immense power and compassion of equal strength, a motif in Buddhism, is found throughout the temple. From the sheer number and sizes of the buddhas, and the enormity of the architecture, each display of strength is always shown in the context of the desire for these enlightened beings to aid all sentient life.


The Viewing Platform

Dongling temple Buddha carving
The stone carving of the Buddha

As the temple was rebuilt in the 21st century, there are lifts to a view platform at the top of the temple. The main attraction here is a carving of the Buddha with Guanyin as the nose, his eyes as stars and the ears are two guardians. I am not entirely sure why this carving is here. I can only gather that before there was a mountain (where the temple stands now) which had a peak that resembled the Buddha's head. From here you can see the surrounding Shanghai buildings around the temple.

The purpose of this temple?


The purpose of this Buddhist temple is the same as many others. These temples are, in Buddhist philosophy, part of the Sangha. Its definition is controversial, some see it as a community, others see it as a sense of togetherness, and often it is seen as the Buddha referring to the monastic orders. Temples often are a bridge, like monasteries, between the monks and lay people (non-monks). The images and sense of inspiration provided by the large Buddha figures and the architecture can be seen as part of the communication of Buddhist ideals to the public. However, there is always an underlying sense of irony that metal statues of men who eliminated any attachment to objects are erected, or the temples seem to hoard wealth. Just like in the West, places of worship can often give the sense that these institutions act as the centre of faith while also representing all that the religion or philosophy believes to be evil. When I look up at the 27-metre statue of Gaunyin in a room full of so much bling, I wonder if the Buddha's words perhaps have been forgotten. For he discouraged the worship of his body and image, and now there are statues of the many thousands of Buddhas. But perhaps that is just my prejudice.




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